September, 2014

Hello everyone! Yesterday I was a participant one story. After this story I convinced  that Americans are the most humane and responsible people who I met before. First things first.

I ride on the surfboard recently, I’m beginner. I studied in Phuket, Thailand. My first lessons was with instructor. After that I trained alone. To get any board in any rental service in any weather wasn’t problem. One fine day when waves were 2 meters high I decided to catch best wave. I can do it! Of course! In result I got sexy lip and idea — maybe surfing isn’t for me?

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But I’m brave person and I’m getting perfect results in any situation. Next level — surf-trip to Bali, Indonesia. Weather and swell was strong in the during all our trip. Waves were 4 meters high! I got surfboard without problems and run to ocean for best wave. Result of Bali was the best of my life. Broken board and meeting with angry corals. When I was returning broken board and money for it to owner and showing him my scratched legs and bloody stomach, he said me — «Don’t worry! You’ll catch the same wave!».

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Yesterday I went to Malibu beach. I didn’t take surfboard because swell is too big.»I wanna get money but I care about your safe,» — said me American owner of board with high responsibility. Thank you, guy!  I’m health and ready for new adventures.

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